Locations: Sierra High Route

Dates: Saturday, May 1 – Thursday, May 6, 2010

Skiers: Geoff, Barry, Mike & UCL (Nick)

Photographers: All photos in this TR were taken with my camera. Most were taken my me, but the pictures of me were taken by other members of the team.

Synopsis: We were embarking on the Alpine Skills International (“ASI”) 2010 6-day Sierra High Route, from West to East. The trip would be lead by Geoff Clarke, an ASI Guide and former Chief Telemark Examiner for the PSIA.

The planned route crosses the Sierra Nevada over 9 high cols and passes, beginning at old Wolverton Ski Resort on the edge of Sequoia National Park and ending at the valley floor outside Independence (off 395). The planned route starts at approximately 7,200ft., climbs to around 10,000ft. and holds the line between 10,500ft. and 13,000ft., until dropping down on the Eastern side of the Sierra.

I attempted the same route last year with Geoff, but we turned around near Copper Mine Pass due to High avalanche conditions. A TR of last year’s attempt can be found here:

http://www.thebackcountry.net/bb/viewtopic.php?t=1586

Based on Geoff’s running GPS, we traveled approximately 47 miles and climbed over 17,000 of vert over the course of the 6 days.

DAY 1 – Wolverton Ski Bowl to Table Meadows

Sorting our gear for the next 6 days and 5 nights in the parking lot of former Wolverton Ski Bowl.



Unlike last year, we were able to skin immediately from the parking lot and trailhead. As a general note, the amount of snow in the Sierra is mind-blowing this year. In and around the trailhead, it was clear that it was going to be a great trip with great snow coverage.

Skinning through the giant forests of Sequoia National Park on our way up “The Hump” (towards Pear Lake Hut).



The first of many, many scenic shots in this TR. There is plenty of skiing shots as well, but the terrain and beauty one encounters on the Sierra High Route is breathtaking. Although this TR will have a massive amount of pictures and I have done my best to sort through and only offer what I believe to be the best, I hope that the viewer appreciates the natural splendor of the Southern Sierra.



Geoff looking out in the distance from the top of “The Hump”.



After climbing “The Hump”, the route takes you through several cirques offering picturesque spires of amazing ski terrain. Although we were only passing through during this trip, many of these zones can be accessed by staying in the Pear Lake Hut. Having that said, one should be extremely confident in the snow stability before skiing in these areas as it is all prime avalanche terrain.

Several pictures of the cirque around Emerald Lake.





When skiing in this area last year towards the tail-end of our trip, Geoff and I had noticed a steep couloir in the Emerald Lake cirque (from a descent of Skiers Alta). Here I am noting how much more it is filled in this year.



It goes…. But comes along with spiciness, steepness and a variety of other committing factors.



Moving around Aster Lake and then past the Pear Lake Hut, we continued working our way along the Kaweah River.



When traveling along the Kaweah River and in the vicinity of the Pear Lake Hut, one almost always seems to encounter mid-day fog. I am sure some research would turn up the explanation for this phenomenon, but I will leave that for another day. In any event, almost on cue, the fog started to roll up from the valley chasing at our heels.



We continue to move quickly, but not fast enough to out-run the fog.



Over-run by the fog, we are engulfed in a white-out of “sauna-like” proportions. The fog traps long-wave radiational heat from the snow, but also allows the short-wave sunlight to engulf us. I swear, it felt as if it was 95 degrees while skinning in the white-out.

Fortunately, we are able to find our Day 1 camp (the “Waterfall Camp”, complete with running water) via GPS. Shortly after arriving, the fog clears, leaving us to amazing views back down towards the Kaweah river.



The clear skies also show some recent avalanche crowns.



After a long first day of mostly uphill traveling, we are happy to set up our Mid for a nice night on the cusp of the Tablelands.



Day 1 ends with an amazing sunset, hot drinks and rest for the weary.

DAY 2 – Table Meadows to Cloud Canyon, Copper Mine Pass and Glacier Lake

Day 2 of the West to East route is by far the hardest day. You travel over 10 miles, almost completely up hill. The route takes you from your campsite of the vicinity of Table Meadows, up to the Tablelands, around a frozen Lonely Lake, climbing the shark-like Fin Pass, through the monstrous Deadman’s Canyon, climbing Cooper Mine Pass and finally descending down into Cloud Canyon and a small tarn next to Glacier Lake.

While being the most difficult day, it is also one of the most scenic – as the High Sierra finally begins to show itself.

Geoff, Mike and Barry leaving camp on Day 2 to skin through the rolling hills of Table Meadows, before climbing up on to the Tablelands.



Mike on the climb up the Tablelands – the High Sierra beginning to appear.





Once at the top of the Table Lands, Geoff and Barry descend around the backside of what I believe was called “Elephant’s Peak” towards a small col that would take us to Lonely Lake.





After hitting the col above Lonely Lake, one encounters the true High Sierra, as well as a fun (albeit quick) descent on perfect corn snow.



Here I am making some quick turns:





From the base of Lonely Lake, the route takes a striking climb up to the knife ridge of Fin Pass.

Here, Geoff, Barry and Mike start the initial climb, with the prominent “Fin” of Fin Pass in the background:



All the while, the fog start from the Kalweah Valley and Sequoia National Park desperately attempts to engulf us – but this time, we successfully outrun the fog to the *safety* of higher elevation.



Fin Pass from a distance.



Climbing and traversing the steep slopes to the apex of Fin Pass.







At the top of Fin Pass, Deadman’s Canyon, including both Elizabeth and Cooper Mine Passes comes into view.



In our trip last year, Geoff and I encountered High avalanche conditions after initially dropping into Deadman’s Canyon from Fin Pass. Active settlement and whoomping was noticeable in the entire snow pack. We were forced to camp a night, only to set off an extremely large settlement the next day which propagated around the entire cirque.

This year, however, we encountered stable snow conditions and perfect weather.

Traveling West to East, you are forced to undertake the slightly uphill skin of several miles through Deadman’s Canyon, before climbing the steep Cooper Mine Pass.

Here I am relaxing after dropping into Deadman’s Canyon, before the long skin to Cooper Mine Pass.



Geoff leading the way through the Cirque.



The climb across Cooper Mine Pass is steep and exposed – above a hanging snowfield that cliffs out below. Here Geoff breaks the trail.



From the top of Cooper Mine Pass, looking back towards Deadman’s Canyon. I love the late-afternoon light and shadows captured in this picture. You can ski the former ski tracks from a group that had moved from East to West (who we encountered in Wolverton), but can also slightly make out our skin track further uphill.



Gear sorting and switching to down-hill mode at the top of Copper Mine Pass.



I am just chilling at the top of Copper Mine Pass. We would descend down to our Day 2 camp in a tarn below the dark brown rocks. Triple Divide Pass is would awake us the next day (Triple Divide Pass is in the far upper left of the picture).



Geoff pointing out the route to camp.



The descent to camp was not without some excitement. While on a rather large slope, Geoff and Nick did set off a slight settlement in the snow pack. This would be the only instability we encountered on the entire trip.

Coming into camp on Day 2, I was happy to have made it past our turn-around point from last year.



The views did not suck – it is California after all!

DAY 3 – Glacier Lake, Triple Divide Pass and Colby Pass to Milestone Bowl

On the morning of Day 3, we booted up a chute directly from our camp to the top of a col overlooking Triple Divide Pass.

Barry booting up from camp.



Geoff at the top, looking out on the Sierra.



Triple Divide Pass is in the distance, with the faint tracks coming through the rock outcroppings.



We dropped from our col down into the cirque below Triple Divide. Here, I am making some turns dropping in:





High up on Triple Divide Pass.



The backside of Triple Divide Pass offers sweeping views and a great ski descent down towards Colby Pass. Here are a number of shots of the descent.

Geoff working his way down.



Barry following Geoff.



Couple of me making my way down through some perfect corn snow.





Geoff continuing on.





Mike working down the backside of Triple Divide Pass.



I am clearly enjoying the descent.





Our tracks from the top of Triple Divide Pass, farming the corn all the way down.



We then skinned over to Colby Pass, gaining some elevation to eventually descent down towards Milestone.

Mike and Barry climbing Colby Pass.



Geoff on another large descent, off the backside of Colby Pass.





Enjoying the corn.





Mike working down the backside of Colby Pass.



Our tracks down the backside of Colby Pass.



All in all, Day 3 is a shorter day filled with great ski descents, deep in the Sierra.

After briefly chatting with the other group moving East to West, we decided to climb up into Milestone Bowl to camp. On the way up, we noticed this amazing looking Couloir.



Here I am on the skin up to Milestone Bowl, with the largely untapped Kaweah Peaks off in the distance. There is an abundance of big lines in the Kaweahs, but the access is very difficult because of the remoteness. I am sure there are a number of first decent opportunities there.



Geoff, Barry and Mike working up towards Milestone Bowl, with the late afternoon light fading.



Camp in Milestone Bowl was great – here I am pondering the deliciousness of ramen noodles, pesto, olive oil and parm cheese.

DAY 5 – Tyndall Plateau, Williamson Bowl, the “Super Bowl” to Mahogany Flat

Day 5 marked an exciting day, as we had heard rumors from other groups that the “Super Bowl” to the immediate north of Mt. Williamson was filled in and skiable for over 4,000 ft of vert. This would allow us to ski to our Day 5 camp, without having to down climb from Shepard’s Pass.

To approach the Super Bowl, one must cross the Tyndall Plateau. At around 11,000 ft it is a long flat approach, with the North Couloirs of Mt. Tyndall (14,018 ft) looming. I had planned on coming back and skiing Mt. Tyndall after the trip, but opted for Mt. Williamson instead. A separate TR will follow.

Geoff, with the Tyndall Plateau and Mt. Tyndall off in the distance.



Mike skinning across the Tyndall Plateau.



After crossing the Tyndall Plateau, we climbed up next to Williamson Bowl and the North Side of Mt. Williamson (14,375 ft), the 2nd highest peak in California. I would come back 2 days later to ski the Eastside of Mt. Williamson for nearly a 6,000 ft descent. Separate TR to follow.



Mike climbing, with Williamson Bowl in the background.



Here I am, on the top of Super Bowl.





The upper portion of Super Bowl, and part of the lower portions. It drops below the corner and continues own, with a continuous ski descent of nearly 4,000 ft.





Geoff dropping in.



Sequence of me dropping in to the perfect Spring snow at the top of the Super Bowl.







Looking up at our tracks on the first of many long sections of the Super Bowl.



Geoff, Mike and Barry continuing to work down, with the Owens River Valley off into the distance.



Geoff, Mike and Barry, respectively, skiing the corn.







Here I am continuing on lower in elevation.





The Super Bowl ends at Shepard’s Creek near Mahogany Flat, with a fun 500 ft. couloir. Here is Geoff dropping in from above.



A macro of the exit couloir to the Super Bowl:



Five days later, we now hike up to Mahogany Flat for our final campsite, now on the Eastern side of the Sierra.



DAY 6 – Mahogany Flat to Independence

Having crossed the Southern Sierra on skis is an amazing experience. The Sierra Nevada are one of the most beautiful and rugged mountain ranges in the world. Called “The Range of Light” they do not disappoint – and with elevations reaching 14,000+, they offer a great combination of ski mountaineering objectives.

Day 6 is merely hiking down the Sheppard’s Pass trailhead to the Owens River Valley floor.

Here is a macro of the Super Bowl.



Here I am at the end of the trip.



I would highly recommend this trip and using Alpine Skills International in particular for your first crossing. The navigation can be difficult, especially in a white-out if you were to encounter such conditions. A guided effort is the logical choice for your 1st crossing.

I have taken avalanche courses through ASI and was always impressed with their operation. Geoff is a wonderful guide, and uses the trip as a teaching classroom to show navigational skills and ski mountaineering techniques. He has lead this trip for ASI approx. 15 crossings West to East. Peter Leh, the other lead guide who handles the East to West version, has crossed over 20 times.

While I have not done East to West, my understanding is that while the West to East trip is more strenuous with more climbing, I can assure you that the descents are big (with the Super Bowl being the biggest). Therefore, West to East is an amazing direction in my opinion.

SICK UCL. :P

Stoked for ya.

thanks for all that. Geoff is awsome. looks like you guys nailed it!

_________________
Mike Schwartz
www.thebackcountry.net
mike@thebackcountry.net

Awesome TR! We did that same trip in 7 days in 2005, with the Superbowl exit (although we hiked all the way out that day) and had hoped to do it again the first week of May this year. Life got in the way though, and we never got it organized. Looks like we missed a stellar chance. Oh well, there's always next year.

Did you consider camping at the base of Tyndall and bagging it from there? That's what we want to do next time. Sure seems easier than hiking back up to it from the Eastside :-)