More Woodfords Sunny Side climbing today left and above where wen went last time. Today was REALLY cold, 12 degrees outside in one place.
We had wind today and colder temps, but south facing rock was good to go without gloves or hat. Belaying was cold. I learned some more 5.9's and 10's that are easy to find and amazing.
This other area a little higher and to the east called The Frontier looks like more of the same. A LOT more. Can't wait to learn some of those climbs. Thanks to all route setters, guidebook writers, and beta sharers. Free gear for all to you. Or at least a great deal, email me anytime!!!
We climbed today in the middle of that massive "fortress" of rock in the sun. I brought crap shoes for the sandy hike up there, but wished I had my approach shoes for the scrambling in-between some of the climbs. I'm sure some of you hard men just do it in sandals...
These are some of the climbs with a slap of photoshop paint to show you some routes. I never draw my climbing routes to be perfect, consult a real guidebook please and don't be mad at me. But I am drawing routes that I climbed or looked at from the bottom.
First we climbed Whisker Biscuit 5.9. Nick led and it was pretty cold at 9am, so I'll lead that next time. This was an excellent jam crack with more hand sized quality parallel crack than it appears from below. Anchors at top. We also did I been Jammin on the way out, which is amazing too.
Nick has buddies that are setting new routes in the Woodfords area, and they were nice enough to draw us a map to get from this Alcove area up into the middle zone below "Way the Hell Up There 11c". It involved moving over to the east a little and climbing some 4th class steps behind a tree, then wandering uphill through bushes and boulders towards that 11c crack (which I believe is on Pineal Pillar from a ST thread). We climbed a new 2 pitch called Serenity Now. The lower pitch is 5.7 and a LOT better than it looks. some bushes to go through, but really good moves in places. There is a 2 bolt anchor about 120' up and just beyond the huge redish house sized boulder up there. BTW, when we rapped down from this spot our 70 meter rope just barely touched down to the start. We also could have down climbed however with less rope, or rapped off of "way the hell up there". The upper pitch is 10d to a 2 bolt anchor. no big cams needed for the 2nd pitch, although I used some on the lower pitch just cuz I had them.
nick comes up to me at the top of pitch one of Serenity Now. I used the wide crack on the right and follwed chalk marks that crossed over to other cracks on the left using some face knobs.
Nick starts pitch two while I freeze in the shade. He was pretty cold too even though he had sun and was on south facing rock. Maybe SE, and we had an east wind today.
I left my jacket and gloves at the base. Whoops. I got creative with my fleece hat. I also keep meaning to try climbing with socks on for more warmth.
I drew XX's for the anchors. Thanks to Chim Chim who I believe put this route up and many more. And thanks to Ron Anderson and the other 10 guys who I don't know. Thanks to all climbers who established routes everywhere! I"m still kind of new to all of this and just overwhelmed with the fun climbs I can do thanks to a small group of people like this. Same goes for mt bike trails I guess too. No one really helps me find ski tours, and our tax dollars pay for most other recreation. But climbing is really a unique and fascinating thing all around.
Lira's in Meyers is a good place to stop for a gut bomb for breakfast or lunch. This huge sandwhich was 6 bucks and made while I waited at 7am. Their donuts are the only REAL donuts in tahoe btw.
Next I led I Be Jammin. I read that this has been downgraded from 10a to 5.9 from Montain Project, but I vote the other way. I felt this was definitely more strenuous than the other three 5.9's in the area. Easy to protect but your falling out of the crack the whole time while you try to figure out the right way to climb it. Can't wait to do this one again, and the others next to it like OULD and Quoia. Open shuts at the top of this climb, which also are for Quoia.
I hope to ski a few laps on the N facing steep trees and chutes across the street.
These are some other areas facing north that will have to wait for next season. This shady side of the canyon has a short approach and a campground at the bottom. Woodfords Canyon is truly a climbing trip destination worthy like the Leap and Tuolumne. You just need the beta, which is found searching online. Buy Ron Anderson's original guidebook by email, as the PDF online is too small and blury. Plus that guy deserves a few bucks.